TRAVEL FEATURE

SHIKOKU ISLAND: JAPAN'S LAST FRONTIER
By Stephen I. Diaz

It is quite surprising that the beautiful island of Shikoku easily slips the radar of many Japan fanatics.   Not so many people would mention nor talk about it, and even fewer would even dare to include it into their itinerary.  While many travelers have boasted their respective Japanese adventures with interesting collages of hi-tech buildings and temples; bizarre fashion sense of Tokyo youths against the geishas of Kyoto; smorgasbord of first class Western cuisine and the revolving sushi bars, only a few have taken a serious interest to the even more traditional aspect of this country. Japan, undoubtedly, has an intriguing yet subtle and mystifying traditional culture, which can be easily ignored if your impression about the country is colored by the outrageous anime or manga culture that is quite known overseas. Shikoku introduces you into the other side of Japan that many have failed to uncover.


Located south of the western side of Japan’s largest island of Honshu, Shikoku is connected to the main island via three massive and ambitious expressways.  Shikoku, before it was connected by those gigantic bridges, was labeled as Japan’s “last frontier” - where traditional houses used to be a common site, heroes and poets were born, and the remotest of villages were hidden among secret valleys.


Geographically, Shikoku is mountainous, mainly in the central region, and relatively flat along the southern coastline.  Including Honshu, it is the smallest among Japan’s four major islands – Kyushu and Hokkaido being the other two - yet it offers a more traditional and laid back atmosphere, fit for those who wish to have a genuine Japanese experience.  The island, which is less than twice the size of the central Philippine island of Negros, has a shape which is also quite similar to that of the latter, although in reverse angle.

The island is very famous for its 88-temple pilgrimage associated with the Buddhist priest Kūkai. Devotees have the option to either walk or use modern vehicles to complete their pilgrim.

Shikoku Island is composed of four prefectures – Ehime, Kochi, Tokushima and Kagawa.  Incidentally, the name Shikoku literally means “four countries”.

Ehime Prefecture

Matsuyama City

Ehime, which means “beautiful maiden” is located in the northwestern part of Shikoku, and is quite known for its gentle climate.  Due to its strategic location, it experiences few natural disasters such as typhoons and earthquakes.  The prefecture is truly blessed with conditions which make it a comfortable region in which to live and do business.  Some surveys even mention that the city of Matsuyama, the capital of Ehime Prefecture and arguably the most important of all the cities in Shikoku, is one of the most preferred cities to retire by old Japanese.

Dogo Onsen, an old spa made famous by the novel "Botchan"

While in Matsuyama City, one can dip into the fabled Dogo Onsen, an old spa made famous by the novel “Botchan”, which was written by Natsume Soseki, a frequent visitor of the city.  Just north of Matsuyama is the city of Imabari, where one can enjoy the relaxing view of the Seto Inland Sea.  The gorgeous sunset seen from the hills and islands along Imabari is believed to have inspired several haiku poets since the early days.

Just in the southern part of Ehime Prefecture are the quiet coastal and hilly towns that are perfect for cultivating oranges and other citrus fruits.  When one speaks of Ehime prefecture, the first thing that comes into an average Japanese mind is “Ehime mikan” or “Ehime orange”.

Kochi Prefecture

Shimanto River, nationally acclaimed as the cleanest river in Japan

Kochi Prefecture is fondly called as the “home of the brave”.   Located in the southern part of the island, the prefecture’s long sea coast bravely faces the mighty Pacific Ocean, and gives the adventurous ones the chance to surf through the high waves of the open sea.  Also within the prefecture is the Shimanto River, nationally acclaimed as the cleanest river in Japan.

Kochi Prefecture produced many heroes towards the Meiji Restoration (the period when Japan finally opened to the outside world).  That includes Ryoma Sakamoto, who is still being idolized by young people and old ones alike even up to the present date.  A visionary who tried to stop the cruel feudal system, Sakamoto was assassinated at the age of 33, not long before Meiji Restoration occurred.  He believed in the principle that “all men are created equal”, and he fought against the conservative and abusive authorities of 19^th century Japan.  If the Philippines had Jose Rizal, Japan had Ryoma Sakamoto.

It is interesting to note that for a long time, this open-sea prefecture has established a sister relationship with the landlocked Philippine province of Benguet.  The cultural and economic exchanges, over the past three or so decades have trained several Benguetenos, giving them the chance to learn about Japanese agricultural technology, which were then applied in the Philippines when they got back home.

Akiko Kojima, Japan's first ever Miss Universe

Kochi Prefecture is the birthplace of Japan’s first ever Miss Universe, Akiko Kojima.

Tokushima Prefecture

A thatched-roof house in Tokushima

Tokushima Prefecture seems to be the most mystical of the four prefectures in Shikoku, if not, of all over Japan.  Although it is well-known for its annual summer festival – the Awa Odori Festival – this prefecture, located in the eastern side of Shikoku, actually has lots more to offer.  Situated in the western side of the prefecture is the hidden valley of Iya.  Legend has mentioned that the valley was once a haven for fugitives and defeated warriors of the olden times.  They settled along the area and built vine bridges, in which they could just easily cut and destroy when authorities found out about their hideouts.  A few of those vine bridges are still preserved after several centuries of being hidden in the deep forests.

Iya Valley, a hidden valley in Shikoku

For several decades until the mid-1970s, Iya Valley had been disconnected to the rest of Shikoku.  Tunnels were not yet introduced at those times, so in order to reach into the secluded area, one must travail through the rough mountains, steep cliffs and deep forests.

When modernization and the promise of a better life were made known in Iya Valley, several families have left and abandoned their thatched houses and hopped to the more progressive cities in Honshu Island.  The villages within Iya Valley remained hidden, until modern day politicians had started to build tunnels and bridges, some being unnecessary, making it easier for the locales to travel to and from the neighboring towns and cities.  Only a few thatched houses remain inhabited these days.

A vine bridge in Tokushima

Hiroko Mima (Miss Universe 2008 Top 15)  and Mizuho Sakaguchi (Miss Universe 1988 3^rd Runner-up) were both from Tokushima Prefecture.

Kagawa Prefecture

Takamatsu City

To those who are fond of food tripping, Japan’s smallest prefecture, Kagawa Prefecture, is home to the delicious sanuki udon, a Japanese white noodle made of wheat flour.  One can find a genuine sanuki udon shop in the cities of Sakaide and Marugame.  The prefectural capital, Takamatsu City, boasts itself for its quiet urban lifestyle, with spacious parks and impressive gardens.

Located in the northeast end of Shikoku Island, Kagawa Prefecture contains a remarkable variety of natural wonders.  The islands of the Seto Inland Sea and rocky green landscapes of the Sanuki Mountains epitomize the beauty of Kagawa.  One can also cross the majestic Great Seto Bridge from Honshu Island via a train or car and enter Kagawa through Sakaide City.  At 13.1 kilometers (8.1 mi), it ranks as the world's longest two-tiered bridge system.

Several movies have been shot in the scenic rural locations of Kagawa, including the remote islands within the Inland Sea.  Most famous of which is the black and white film 24 Pupils, which literally means the 24 eyes (or pupils) of the 12 students being taught by the main character of the movie. The island where the movie was shot is now functioning as a tourist attraction.

Shikoku Island is indeed a must visit place if you consider yourself as a genuine Japan fanatic.  From the sweet oranges of Ehime to the mouthwatering sanuki udon of Kagawa; from the mystifying hidden valleys of Tokushima to the rough shores of Kochi, Japan’s last frontier indeed have endless attractions that will surely keep you asking for more.

About the author:

Stephen I. Diaz has lived in Japan for the past 12 years.  He has already visited 45 of the 47 prefectures in Japan.  He has been to Shikoku Island seven times.